Article by the experts: Lucia Salvioni a et al.
A cosmetic product can be comprehended as any substance or combination of substances designed for application on the external parts of the human body (such as the epidermis, hair, nails, lips, external genital organs), or to the teeth and oral cavity’s mucous membranes. The purpose of these products is to clean, perfume, protect, alter their appearance, maintain them in a healthy state, or rectify any odours they may produce. Skincare products are a specific category of cosmetics that are applied to the epidermis. The efficacy of these skincare products is largely dependent on the variety of ingredients used and the technology employed in their preparation.
Each cosmetic product consists of an active ingredient and other substances, often referred to as the “base”, “vehicle”, or “presentation” of the product. These include creams, lotions, and gels. The vehicle must also maintain the physical, chemical, and microbiological stability of the active ingredient and the entire formulation. However, distinguishing between the bioactive agents and the other ingredients can sometimes be challenging, as the latter may possess properties that contribute to the overall effect of the final product. For instance, lecithin, which is used as an emulsifier in cosmetic formulations, also has a moisturizing effect. It appears to enhance the firmness of the dermis, potentially contributing to an anti-aging effect. The primary effects of cosmetic vehicles are: Protective (Protects the skin from external harmful factors) Cleansing (Eliminates dirt and microorganisms from the skin) Hydratating (Provides water in order to restore or maintain fluid balance) Moisturizing (Establishes an effective barrier that prevents water loss through the epidermis) Soothing (Provides a gently calming effect) Firming (Makes the skin more toned and smoother).
Skincare products, which are a specific type of cosmetics used on the epidermis, can be presented in various physical states: liquid (solutions or suspensions), solid (powders), or semisolid systems (gels and emulsions). Emulsions are the most commonly used and can be categorized, based on their consistency, as creams or lotions. Creams have a denser or heavier consistency compared to lotions, primarily due to the higher water content in lotions.
The selection of the appropriate vehicle or presentation for a skincare product primarily depends on its intended use. Other considerations when choosing the vehicle include the type of skin and the size of the application area. Generally, creams with a moisturizing effect are more suitable for dry skin, while gels or solutions are preferred for oily skin. Regarding the application area, products designed for large areas (e.g., body cream) must be more spreadable than products intended for a small area, such as a blemish corrector.
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