Article by the experts: Rodan et al.
An effective skincare regimen hinges on four main pillars: protection, prevention, cleansing, and moisturizing. Sun damage, often resulting from daily incidental exposure to ultraviolet rays rather than sporadic exposure during holidays, is a significant concern. Hence, dermatologists advocate for the daily application of sunscreens. The most potent ingredients for shielding against both ultraviolet A and B rays are zinc oxide and avobenzone. As Over-The-Counter (OTC) drugs, sunscreens are subject to rigorous safety and efficacy testing and must adhere to strict labeling regulations. Despite no new sunscreen actives being approved by the FDA, advancements in formulation chemistry and technology have enhanced the aesthetic appeal, application ease, and performance of sunscreens, thereby promoting user compliance. The application of sunscreen should invariably be the concluding step of every home skincare routine.
The skincare market offers a bewildering assortment of cleansers for removing makeup, pollution, and excess sebum, and moisturizers for hydration and delivery of beneficial ingredients. Some of these products contain FDA-approved active ingredients for restoring the skin’s barrier function, but most do not. Ideally, the formula’s vehicle should cater to a specific skin type (oily, dry, or combination) and augment the activity of an active ingredient, if present. It’s important to note that formulas with similar or identical ingredients may not necessarily yield the same results. Much like a recipe, a formula is unique. The way ingredients like eggs, sugar, flour, and butter are combined, and the quantity used, as well as the mixing and cooking process, can result in different outcomes, such as a pancake or a soufflé. This analogy holds true for product formulations as well. Consumers lacking proper information can easily be misled by the marketing strategies of rival products. Clinical testing and before-and-after photos serve as the most reliable guide for recommending specific products to patients.
Generally, gel-based and bar cleansers are suitable for oily skin types, while cream or lotion-based ones are preferable for normal to dry skin. Moisturizers provide humectant agents that attract water into the stratum corneum from the surrounding environment and dermis below. They also contain occlusive agents that prevent transepidermal water loss. Almost all products include both humectants, such as hyaluronic acid, urea, and allantoin, and occlusives like petrolatum, mineral oil, and lanolin. Humectants are found in the water phase of a formula, while occlusives are in the oil phase. Oil-in-water formulations, which are typically lightweight gels, lotions, and serums, are best suited for normal to dry skin. Conversely, water-in-oil formulations, which may be ointments or creams, provide superior hydration for dry skin. The recommendation of the appropriate cleanser, moisturizer, and sunscreen for patients will depend on their skin type, whether normal, dry, or oily. The specific FDA-approved active and/or functional cosmetic ingredients that patients should seek in their products will depend on their primary skin condition, concern, or goals. It’s crucial for consumers to understand their skin type and condition to choose the most suitable products, thereby maximizing the benefits of their skincare routine. This understanding will also help them navigate the vast array of products on the market and make informed decisions.
Good Information 😌